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How To Hit A Draw In Golf (Easy Drill)


Eric Cogorno here with Performance Golf Zone. In today’s video, we’re going to talk about
how to hit the draw in golf. I want to go over a couple key points here
as to how to get you guys curving the golf ball from right to left, hitting those draws
within a couple of swings. This isn’t something that should take a long
time to be able to do. I want to explain the information, show you
a couple ways to do it, get you drawing that golf ball very quickly. Let’s briefly talk about what creates the
draw. In the swing, the first key checkpoint that
I need to go over to understand how I’m going to curve the ball from right to left is, we
need to understand that the club face needs to be closed to the path. I can’t hit a ball that draws if my club face
is square to, nor if it’s open to the path. I need the club face to be closed to the path. Let’s go over a couple points that are going
to help us do that. The first part that dictates whether the club
face is open or closed, and for us to get this draw going, is going to be the grip. What we need to avoid is any overly weak grip
pattern, any hands turned counterclockwise on the club too much, any heel pad on the
side of the club, a very palmy left-hand grip, right hand too far on top. All of those pieces, like Vs to my left, all
of the things that we’ve talked about in our grip videos, that’s going to inhibit our ability
to get the club face closed. We need to avoid that. What we do need is a neutral to slightly strong
grip. So, I’m going to make sure my hands are maybe
rotated a little bit more clockwise on the club. From face-on, I might want to see a little
bit more of my logo on my grip, make sure my Vs are over to the right a little bit,
just make sure we’re neutral to slightly strong. That will help our ability to get the club
face going. We need to avoid the weak-grip pattern. If we have the grip pattern under control,
then we need to watch the club face in space as well. So, we need to avoid, during our swing, anything
that’s going to make the club face get overly open during our backswing, overly open at
the top. Some things we want to watch out for here
is going to be, too much forearm rotation too early would open the club face, and too
much cup or extension into our left wrist. Those are the two most common problems that
open the club face and inhibit you golfers from hooking the ball or creating a curve. So, what we want to do when we go back, we
have our grip on neutral, we want to make sure that that club face is going to stay
square or slightly closed throughout. I just want to monitor that forearm rotation. I want to monitor where my left wrist is in
space. Any kind of cupping action, any excessive
forearm rotation is going to make this really difficult. We want to make sure that that left wrist
stays pretty neutral, that face stays pretty neutral. You don’t need to have a perfect backswing
to hit a draw. We need to avoid common errors, though, that
create the slice. We can’t have our club face too open. Let’s make sure that stays square going back. Now, if we have those pieces under control
and we have the face under control, in the setup, ball position also plays a role. The more forward I move the ball in my stance,
the more difficult it is to hit a draw. Can I hit a draw from a neutral ball position? Absolutely. As I creep more and more forward, it gets
more and more difficult. What I’d like to do is have a slightly back
ball position, have the ball positioned a little bit back of middle, maybe between my
normal ball position and my right foot. That will help me with my path piece, as we’re
going to talk about in a minute. Club face square at address. Let’s keep the ball back in our stance just
a little bit. Now, if we can have that and we work on that
until we get that right, we could hit a couple of shots here in the beginning, get the ball
curving to the left with just those pieces. So, if I took my normal setup, and I’m going
to hit a little practice shot, and I want to start to get the ball curving to the left,
I ensure that my grip pattern is neutral to strong, I make sure that I’m kind of closed
there, slightly tilted down, and slightly tilted down on the follow-through. I’m going to go ahead a hit a ball that curves
a little bit to the left, start to get the ball drawing. So, there’s a little bit of a draw out there,
but what we really want to do is make that draw functional on the golf course, and that
requires a little bit of a path adjustment. What we need to understand is, during the
downswing, the more that I get the club working from inside of this ball target line… I have these sticks in the ground indicating
my ball target line. The more the club head works from inside of
that ball target line to the golf ball, it increases the odds of my ability to hit a
draw. The more, during my downswing, I get the club
neutral, even over the top or outside of that line, working across to the left, decreases
the odds of a draw, especially one that’s going to finish at the target. So, part number two I want to give you is
a path fix, something for feedback to know that I can get that club swinging inside-out. We marry that with the club face portion,
then we have really, really good draws, pretty quickly as well. So, I have two alignments rods here, and I’m
going to show us how we’re going to set this up. Now, when I take my normal setup position,
I use it to kind of pose a little takeaway. I want to get these alignment rods roughly
halfway, maybe three-quarters of the way down the shaft here, and I’m going to show you
where I place these. So, from behind here, I’m going to put the
stick just on the outside portion of my stick, again, roughly halfway down my club, and I’m
going to go ahead and tilt this down onto the same angle that I have my club here. So, if I have an 8-iron, I take my setup,
I put it outside here at roughly the same angle. It doesn’t need to be perfect, maybe slightly
more vertical. I go back to my address position, I do the
same thing in front, kind of see where half to three-quarters of the way down is. Now, this one I’m going to put on the inside
part of the stick, and again, I’m going to kind of match my club. So, if I put this club on its normal lie angle,
I want it to be roughly the same angle there. Now, the point here is for a feedback station. You have to get the club face first, but once
we get that, we need the path part to get the ball to finish at the target. A ball that draws to the left must start to
the right, and we need the path portion with that. This is an awesome feedback station to hit
a draw, to give you feels. A) You’re going to know immediately whether
you do have your path inside-out, or B) you’re going to have feels to fix that. So, if I take my normal address position here
and I just do some rehearsals, I don’t even need a ball in the beginning, I’m just going
to feel this club head start to work inside of the stick, get to the tee, and really work
to the right. And both of these things, if you slice a ball
especially, this is going to have to be exaggerated. When I say get the club head inside and underneath
this, I’m talking, get it inside. Get that club head as far behind you as you
can get it from here. Work that club head into the ball and get
that club head exiting as far right as you can. Those two pieces, fixing the club face first,
getting it closed, is essential for the draw. Part number two, we have to get the path part. Put these two stations and you should be able
to start curving the ball, hitting draws here in minutes. I hope you guys liked this video. Please favorite this, subscribe. Click the link below, let us know some comments
and if you guys have any questions. We’ll see you all soon.

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